From ancient artefacts to modern art, Qurans to carpets, Tehran is home to the best of Iran's museums and galleries. And though it doesn't have the long, illustrious history of Isfahan or Shiraz, Tehran is where to discover more about Iran's 20th century upheavals, from the tarnished grandeur of the Pahlavi palaces to the countless fading murals in praise of Khomeini and the Iraq War martyrs.