The customary way
of eating ortolan, a delicate songbird, involves the diner
covering his or her
head with a large
napkin. Tradition dictates that this is
to shield – from God's eyes – the shame
of such a decadent and disgraceful act.The English
ortolan is derived from Middle French hortolan, "gardener". The
ortolan is served in French cuisine, typically cooked and eaten whole. Traditionally diners cover their heads with their napkin, or a towel, while eating the delicacy.