Over the next few hours, thousands of men submerge themselves in the mud and position themselves around burning woodpiles to dry, before proceeding through the streets. “It goes back to our ancient traditions,” said Mohammad, a teacher in his thirties, fresh from the mud bath. “People would rub mud on themselves when someone died. The more the person was loved, the more mud people would rub on themselves. Later it was used to mark the death of Hussein because he is really dear to people.”