For some of the more remote sights you have to travel with a guide. Although this sounds like a turn-off, most tour companies allow a lot of flexibility and will allow individuals or small groups to design an itinerary and get off the well-worn trail. In cities such as Tripoli and Benghazi you can often wander alone, but in Ghadames, Leptis Magna and the Sahara, a guide is obligatory. But this is a good thing: a good guide will provide your entry point into Libyan society and initiate you into secrets that are impossible to discover on your own. And after travelling for two weeks with your guide, there’s a good chance you’ll also have made a friend for life.