Darband: Escaping from traffic and pollution

Three kilometres uphill from Tajrish Sq, the road ends, becoming a path winding up a narrow rocky valley, with water cascading down the slope. The trail heads up into the hills past a picturesque succession of teahouses, restaurants and fruit-conserve stalls: it's one of the most relaxing places in Tehran to kick back with tea and a qalyan, with a mountain-village feel.