Lake Urmia is Iran's largest wetland and was once one of the biggest saltwater lakes in the world. Until recently, it was also Iran's principal domestic tourism destination. For decades, Tehranis would drive the 10 hours or so from the capital to the country's far north-west. Urmia's drying was a long time in the making. Following the 1979 revolution, which overthrew the monarchy, Iran adopted a policy of food self-sufficiency, in part to shield its new Islamist authorities from international pressure. Out went many of the lakeside vineyards, some of which were uprooted for religious reasons. In came thirstier produce, such as apples and sugar beet.
